1. Refer to General Rules for non-building rules.
2. No 4x4 or all-wheel drive vehicles allowed.
3. Pre-derbied cars are allowed, provided they meet all rules.

General Rules: ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! 1. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… 2. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 16–17 must have a notarized permission slip. The person that signs in as the driver must be the driver for that event! 3. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the driver’s meeting. 4. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. 5. Any open driver’s door will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. 6. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified!  7. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew. 8. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 protest fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may protest another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest. 9. Any controversies will be taken up at the driver’s meeting. 10. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!! Car Preparation 1. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby including trailer hitches & brackets. 2. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!! 3. Tires no bigger than 17 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. 4. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear -safety approved glasses, face shield or have FULL faced helmets. 5. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes. 6. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. Compacts read additional rules on back! 7. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 8. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. 9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging. Car building: WELDING: 1. Only the Outside of Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of the doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires. 2. You can weld frame seam from the front transmission crossmember forward top side only! The frame seam weld can’t be larger then 1/2” wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopar cars, which means No bolting the seam. ***On 03 and Newer Fords only: Ford parts will be allowed to be used as the cradle. No exceptions!!! 3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. Side bars may be no further back than the front inner fender of rear wheel and may also install another cross bar as a fuel tank protector. This bar can not act as a kicker. Dash bar must be 6” from dash sheet metal and floor. Dash bar must be located no farther back then inside seam of front doors. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Allowed 2 down bar on the inside of the passenger’s front door but can not be any farther forward then the inside front door seam & can go to frame. Bumpers: 4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car but only 1 set of brackets may be used! Bumpers may be loaded but MUST resemble a stock bumper. Bumper skins must be an actual bumper. Bumper may only be loaded within the mounting points on frame. Outside this point is to remain stock or will be cut off. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! 5. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2-chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT ALL 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations. *** 6. Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper. Weld the chrome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper- FIX bumper! HOOD/TRUNKS: 7. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame 8. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go threw body mount hole. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. Trunk meets floor may be attached in 2 spots to floor-2 bolts 9. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.

 

10. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend threw body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount. SUSPENSION: 11. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end & springs to frame in 4 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. 12. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear shackle box. 13. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. Homemade OK!! 14.   80 and newer cars may be leafed using the following rules:  Any rear end - 8 lugs ok    5/16" thick, 2.5" wide leaf size 2" stagger front and back. 9 leaf maximum 5 clamps per side 2x4x1/4" max. 5/16" bolts max. 48" minimum spring length, eyelet to eyelet. NO DOUBLED MAINS, no leafs above the mains rear mount - 6X6X1/4" shackle, bolted thru the frame Front eyelet mount 1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset 2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal 3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum Springs MUST have a minimum 2" arch. Springs may be mounted above or below the axle No allthread struts, must have shock absorbers.   15. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybird rear-ends are allowed- must be mounted in factory location of car that you put in under! 16. On ‘98 and Newer Fords, cars will be allowed to use pre 98 ford brackets. Aftermarket brackets will be allowed if they are pre-approved. Must be mounted in stock fashion. 17. Front arms may be bolted, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. Welding- 2 straps 2” on frame 2” on A-arm ENGINE MOUNTING: 18. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. Any skid plates on engine or tranny can only be mounted to engine/tranny and can NOT be attached to frame or cross member.  19. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Nothing on the engine can be used to re-enforce the frame/car body, etc. If any parts on the engine or tranny are being used to make the car stronger, you will be asked to cut or take that part off before you can run. 20. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to 3” from back of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! If you have Dist Protector, you can’t have rear straps on engine to rails frame! ***21. You may have tranny braces along the side of the tranny & on top side. The braces must be attached to tail house and bell housing of tranny only. Can not be connected to tranny mount or cross member. Braces can ‘t be bigger then 2”X 2” STEERING: 22. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. FENDERS: 23. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance & you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender. MISC: 24. You must have 1 bar(prefer 2) in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. The windshield bar can’t be any bigger then 3” wide- 5” on dash – 5” on roof only.  The windshield bars must be a minimum of 3” outside the DP! No rear window bars!!! 25. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off. 26. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3/8 cable with 1 turn buckle in each window opening and may go to the frame. Turn Buckle must have 3 inches of clearance from body. You may weld washers around holes on car body. Wagons can have 2 allthread from roof to frame but must be threw body mounts. If you use althread, only 1 spot of wire/cable per back windows 26. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, it can not be bolted to the frame. 27. You are allowed to bolt Factory body seams together. NO WELDING!!!! 28. Dist. Cap protectors will be allowed on all cars. The protector can only be mounted to engine and or tranny bell housing. There must be 6 inches of clearance between the Fire wall/dash sheet metal and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame, cage. No rear engine straps can be connected to DP! DP can’t be bigger the 12”X12” 29. 1977 & newer GM and 80 and Newer Ford may can weld 1 plate on the outside only 1 side of rear arch over rearend. This plate can only be 6 inches wide, 22 inches long and ¼” thick. You must drill a ½” hole in the plate so that we can see the thickness. You will not be allowed to patch over this plate if it bends! You must follow the frame rails with the plates. This is ONLY on non leafed cars. 30. A gas tank protector is allowed, may run from side bar to side bar but must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. 31. No frame shaping or manipulating of frames. You will be allowed to hammer in the sides of rear aches only. No squaring! RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR: 32. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place. 33. Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail front and rear of car. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates. 34. No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event.